Understanding Digital Camera Batteries

Writen by Jill Kane

You need batteries to power your digital camera otherwise you won’t be able to use it. Most digital cameras use the standard-sized AA batteries which are reasonably priced and easily available anywhere. However, you must invest in rechargeable batteries as digital cameras tend to use a lot of power and you might find that your batteries are dead after a few shots. A lot of people especially when they are sightseeing tend to leave their cameras on. This, too tends to drain the battery.

There are different kinds of batteries available for digital cameras today. The regular alkaline batteries are all right to use in an emergency but not on a regular basis. They just don’t have the power to last for more than a couple of shots. When they are recharged, the power you get from them is even less. Digital cameras need batteries that can cope with the high amounts of energy they need, especially when you use the flash.

The most popular batteries for digital cameras are the rechargeable NiMH or Nickel Metal Hydride batteries. They don’t cost much and are definitely better than the standard ones you get. They could give you up to one hundred shots if you are careful with how you use your camera, switching it off when you don’t need it. Of course, if you are into more than just the aim-and-click photos, you must be prepared for the charge going fast, especially if you use the flash or you adjust the focus and zoom a lot. Yet another advantage is that these are environment-friendly as they are non-toxic.

When it comes to charging these batteries, make sure you have a good, reliable charger. Remember that batteries can get overcharged so look out for one that has an automatic switching-off when the batteries are fully charged. Always charge all the batteries your camera needs to be powered at one go – whether two or three or four. This way, they are all equally charged when you put them in.

Some digital cameras have to use lithium-ion batteries. The advantage of these, though they are more expensive, is that you can store them and they don’t lose their charge. You can use them for twice as long as the NiMH batteries. Most manufacturers give you a lithium-ion charger when you buy your camera. If they don’t, just make sure you buy one as then they come as accessories.

You digital camera is only as good as the shots you get. If you chance upon a one-in-a-million view and your batteries are dead, it’s a waste of a view and the waste of a camera. Your batteries, no matter how good, are only good if they are well-charged. So invest in a good battery charger. One in which you can control the time of charging so your batteries don’t get overcharged. Once you have your batteries and charger in place, the world is yours, literally, through your viewfinder!

Basics of Macro Photography

Writen by Low Jeremy

Ever wondered how a photographer is able to get blown up pictures of a frog that is less than an inch long? What about a close up picture of living tissue or a postage stamp?

There is no magic to how this is done. An ordinary 35mm. camera can do this but if the hobbyist wants to get down on things, using something that is 100mm. or higher is better. This art is known as called macro photography or “photomacrography.”

Macro photography is nothing new. Before digital cameras were invented, people would shoot using a regular model then enlarge this according to the actual size of the object after it is developed.

This takes time and the new versions out in the market are better because images taken can be viewed on screen and deleted if this does not satisfy the photographer. This saves time and effort on the part of the individual who will have to have to this again if the picture isn’t that great.

The trick to getting these pictures is to shoot as close to the object as possible. Some people might say why not zoom in with the camera but the images are just satisfactory because the background just gets in the way. Photomacrography allows the user to shoot and have a larger image.

Even if people now use digital cameras, the rules for taking pictures are still the same.

1. The aperture must be adjusted to achieve the right frame during each shot.

2. The lighting must be balanced to bring out the true color of the image. If the lamps or the sun are not enough, perhaps having reflectors in the background can make this happen.

3. The use of flashes may at times be the only to get the right shot. The person can use a flash meter and test firing the camera a couple of times to be sure it is precise.

4. The object is usually taken in many angles to get the perfect shot. Those who don’t have steady hands then should use a tripod.

5. Equipment must be stored and cleaned properly to enable the photographer to use this again in the future.

There are books and seminars for those who want to learn more about photomacrography. It will be a good idea for the hobbyist to read and participant in such functions to be able to interact with professional photographers and excel better in this art.

Maximum Sharpness – Beginning Photography Basics

Writen by Chip Clark

All photographers at some point were completely ignorant when it came to photography. Think about that. At one time even Ansel Adams could not tell you the difference between an F-stop and a dark slide. At some stage of a photographer’s life something happens to spark the passion and drive to improve. Quite often beginning photographers focus their education on exposure, depth of field, film types, etc., and overlook the most basics of photography; one of which being creating sharp images.

I cannot tell you how many times a photographer has emailed a digital image, or shown me a print, of an image they have produced – of which they want feedback. Many of them have been creatively composed, perfectly exposed, matched with the right depth of field, but looked like there was an earthquake going on while they took the shot!

Let these words sink in: Nothing will place the stamp of ‘amateur’ on a photograph more than an image that is anything less than tack sharp.

For those of you with aspirations to shoot professionally, and receive compensation for your work, this aspect of image reproduction is crucial. Show an image to a potential client that is even just a miniscule out of focus, it is very unlikely they will become a client. They do notice!

So, with the point now being driven home, how can you produce tack sharp images – alive with dazzling detail? Unless you are running around with a camera that doesn’t even have a brand name on it, and is estimated to be a leftover from the dark ages – you can dismiss the notion that spending a big chunk of change on a new lens will solve your problem. While no experienced photographer will argue that all lenses are created equal – most all major manufacturers of lenses produce high quality results when used properly. Of course there are exceptions, but this article is not about product promotion.

About Lenses

Keep your lenses clean, and keep them protected!

Nothing will make me cringe more than seeing someone hiking around with their camera dangling without a lens cap! It takes very little to scratch them and once you do you can kiss a paycheck or two goodbye. Clean them with a high-quality lens tissue only…not the sleeve of your flannel hiking shirt.

The less glass between your lens and the subject the better!

Many photographers keep UV filters on their lens just to protect it. Take it off and protect that lens like it’s your baby! Adding anything to the lens will degrade the quality of the image. It may be miniscule, but do not settle for ‘close enough’ – ever. Besides, there will be times when you will want to use filters. Eliminate or minimize the extra glass!

About Tripods

Well you knew I was going to bring up the use of tripods, right? Don’t like to use them? Too bad! When you start shooting landscapes at the right aperture, with the right film or ISO setting – you will be working with very slow shutter speeds. In my earlier years I despised the idea of hauling a tripod around. Unfortunately I have a lot of very nice photographs from those days that I would not show except to prove my point!

Remember, there is no such thing as a lazy successful photographer. So if you are not using a tripod because they are a pain – get over it, and get on with improving your photographs.

Simply put, a quality tripod is one that is solid and will not allow your camera to move one bit. An elephant could sneeze on it and it won’t budge! Good tripod. Unfortunately good quality tripods like this are not featherlight. So you will burn a few more calories when you are hiking. The other benefit with using a tripod is that it will slow you down. By slowing down you will think more about your shot, get your visualization process going, and make less exposure mistakes. Therefore – less wasted film, and no more getting back to your PC and uploading images that make you want to cry.

Mirror Lock-Up

If your camera has a Mirror Lock-up feature – use it for these types of shots. When you typically take a picture the mirror slaps up so the shutter curtains can open to expose the image. Even with the best cameras this movement can cause your image to blur slightly when using very slow shutter speeds. Once you lock up the mirror you will not see anything through your viewfinder, so you do this after you have composed, focused, and set the exposure for your shot.

Shutter Release Timer

All SLR cameras have a timer – usually a choice between 2 or 10 seconds. I use the 10 second setting so that if I am shooting with shutter speeds at 1/4 of a second or slower it gives me time to lean my weight into the tripod to hold it extra still. Even using a timer at ‘normal’ shutter speeds will get my hands off the camera, so that even the slightest movement from pushing the shutter button will not affect the image.

Auto Focus

Automatic focusing is wonderful for photojournalism, wildlife, and sports photography – but has no place in producing fine art landscape photographs. I once watched a young man take about fifteen minutes to set up for what was probably a very nice shot. He composed, recomposed, measured the light, adjusted the tripod some more – then pushed the button which resulted in a ‘beep’ as the lens automatically focused – and shot. That’s kind of like polishing up your new car and then choosing to drive it down the dirt roads. Why??

While the best cameras have incredible auto-focus capabilities, they can be off just slightly when you are shooting landscapes (even with long depths of field) and being off even just slightly can mean the difference between ultra sharp details and a so-so image.

So unless you are dealing with uncorrectable nearsightedness, switch the lens to manual and focus yourself. You’ll enjoy the results!

In summary:

1- Keep your lens protected, clean, and with only the necessary filter attachments.

2- Use a tripod! If you are serious about producing professional quality landscape photographs, you cannot get around this.

3- Mirror Lock-Up: The first step at reducing camera shake at the time of exposure.

4- Shutter Timer: The second step at reducing camera shake at the time of exposure.

5- Manual Focus: for more accurate focusing!

Utilizing these techniques will enable you to take one more step towards producing rewarding, high quality fine art photographs!

Chip Clark is a San Diego based professional photographer, with over 20 years experience in landscape photography, wildlife photography, sports photography, and portraiture.

Chip Clark’s photography tutorials are available at: http://www.chipclarkphotography.com/advanced-techniques-for-beginning-photographers-PL.htm

Publishing and reprint rights are granted solely according to the guidelines set forth by Ezinearticles.com.

I Can’t See My RAW Images

Writen by Eric Hartwell

“When I shoot in RAW format, I can’t see the image”

When you take an image in RAW format, the data is stored on the memory card in its unadulterated format. It is not a format that is visible without special software to view it. You may be able to see a representation of the image on your camera screen, but you will not be able to view it directly on the computer screen.

Software is needed to view the image. This will convert it into another format (e.g. JPG). You then have the ability to make adjustments as you wish to things such as the contrast, sharpness, white balance etc.

Your own adjustments can be fine-tuned to your liking. Any such adjustments in the camera are basically a gross and crude generalisation based on what the camera manufacturer feels is likely to work best.

Because the image in RAW format contains all the information from that exposure, you have a greater range of possible adjustments than you would if the camera had manipulated the image. Once an image has been saved as a TIFF or JPG file, some detail is permanently lost.

The software you use to view a RAW file will depend on your make of camera and your pocket. There are free packages available on the internet or software which comes with the camera itself. Otherwise you can purchase commercially produced platforms for this work.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

The Biggest Power Consumers in Digital Cameras

Writen by Ziv Haparnas

Like other portable electronic devices digital cameras rely on batteries to power up their electronics and mechanical elements. Although battery technologies have improved a lot in the last few years they are still very limited in their energy capacity.

Understanding what elements of your digital camera consume the most power can help you to understand why you run out of battery so fast and to conserve battery power in the future. In this article we will list these power hungry components. Other articles explain how you can optimize usage to preserve power.

Your digital camera is built from many components. Some of them are electronic like the chipsets that run the camera and carry out all the wonderful automatic features. Some of them are mechanical like the motors that move the lenses to achieve focus or change the zoom factor. And some of them are optical like the lenses and the mirror in SLR cameras.

Every digital camera components consumes different amounts of energy. Some components consume very little power while others consume a lot. Digital cameras include smart electronics that optimize power consumption but for the most part power consumption depends on how the photographer uses the camera and its features.

Here is a list of three components that consume the most energy in a typical digital camera:

Digital Photo Development – How Do I Print My Digital Photos Online?

Writen by Mindi Haehl

If you are looking to develop your digital photos, you will see how convenient it can be to have them processed online. It can be very time consuming to download all of your digital pictures onto your computer, then edit the pictures online, burn them onto a disk and drive to your local photo store to have them printed. Oftentimes, once you get into the store to print your pictures, you still have to get on a computer and spend a few minutes printing them.

Digital cameras are becoming more and more popular. The quality of digital pictures is excellent nowadays. Since it looks like digital cameras are here to stay, it’s important to find a convenient way to get your pictures developed.

Now, you can get online and upload your digital pictures, edit them to your liking and pay for them all at once. The photo developing company will send you the photos in the mail. It’s very convenient. It’s definitely worth saving yourself a trip to the photo developing store.

To compare digital photo development companies online:

Compare the cost per picture – Make sure to figure the shipping cost into your cost comparison. Find out how long the company will take to ship the photos to you. Do they have any incentives for first time buyers?

Try developing your pictures online. It is easy and most websites are user friendly. You will be glad you are taking your photos with a digital camera.

To view our recommended sources for digital photo printing online, visit this page: Photo Mugs.

Mindi Haehl is the owner of an informational digital photo printing website.

Photography – Introducing the Newlyweds

Writen by Michael Russell

Most receptions begin with the formal entrance of the bridal party, with the band leader or maitre’d announcing each couple’s name just before they enter. It’s similar to stars being introduced at a gala and the process is accompanied by fanfare and applauding guests. Find out where the group enter and then set up your equipment to ensure a good camera angle.

It isn’t always necessary to photograph each couple as they enter, especially if you already photographed them in the procession down the aisle at the Church or when you did your environmental portraits. Photographs of the bride and groom, however, are another matter. Take a shot when they first enter (with the guests in the corner of the frame) and include the guests cheering and applauding them if possible.

Some entourages line up in rows, as if they’re about to dance a reel and then the bride and groom walk down the aisle they have formed. This can be a great chance for some candid pictures. Be sure that none of the bridal party is blocking your view and that the flash doesn’t bounce off an intruding shoulder or gown. Also, place any children at the front of the row so they won’t be lost in the crowd.

The bride and groom’s entrance procession is more formal sometimes and the bride and groom will walk between crossed swords, raised arms with hands linked together, or some other type of person formed enclosure. Get down low for this shot and include the special formation with the couple going through it.

Once the bride and groom have come through the group, have the party stand together for a quick group shot and back up enough so that you include some of the hall and especially the standing guests, in the picture. This should be a quick pose and it serves to show the presentation of the bridal party in the context of being received by the guests.

These events happen very fast, so be sure to have a fresh set of batteries, or a flash set on fast recycling time, for the whole series. You can’t interrupt the flow of events by asking the group to wait or the maitre’d to slow his pace of announcing them just because your flash decides to lose power on you. This is true for many events during the reception, so be ready for the action.

The ‘first dance’ picture is one that exemplifies the need for discretion in wedding coverage. These are very intimate and touching moments. You can’t rush in and pose people just because you need the picture. Be aware that soon after the bride and groom begin dancing the rest of the guests are invited to join in, so don’t dawdle too long waiting for the right shot.

You can get a few good candid shots of the rest of the party at this time, but it might be better to get these shots as the affair goes on and the crowd gets looser. Avoid shooting general scenes of various couples dancing but a shot of the group on the dance floor can be effective.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Photography

Getting Up Close with Digital Cameras: A Brief Guide for the Novice

Writen by Christine Peppler

For the average person, digital cameras are the tool of choice to snap pictures of family and friends, to record special events, and to capture images of inspiring landscapes seen on vacations. However, for some, a love of nature, simple curiosity, or an interest in photography as a hobby guides them toward the world of close-up, or macro, photography. Close-up photography is simply a matter of taking pictures of small objects by getting very close and obtaining a magnified view. For anyone serious about macro photography an SLR camera is needed but for those interested in dabbling with their basic digital camera, a little experimentation can produce interesting close-up photographs.

Special “macro” lenses are recommended for the enthusiast but most digital cameras can accept small screw on “close-up” lenses which provide additional magnification. The digital cameras most consumers purchase are auto focus and merely require the push of a button to enter close or “macro” mode but the owner’s manual should be reviewed to discover the minimum focusing distance of the camera. When shooting at a distance of only inches there are a number of precautions to take to assure a high quality image.

1.) Focus: When photographing at close range/high magnification, images can be blurred by the slightest movements.

If the digital camera has a feature for mirror lock-up, it should be activated as the mere movement of the mirror can blur the image taken.

Use a tripod

Because slight breezes can cause movement, it is easiest to shoot subjects indoors when possible to gain control over the environment. In addition, shooting inanimate objects can also be a good starting point for a novice as the subject of the picture will not be moving.

Because of the close range, blurriness in all but a very small area of the picture frequently occurs. To get more area in focus, reduce the aperture and increase lighting. In some instances, increasing distance from the subject may be necessary.

Be sure the subject is parallel to the lens as items which are perpendicular have portions which are further away and therefore tend to blur.

2.) Getting the view you want: What is seen through the viewfinder of the digital camera is different than what the lens sees. This is particularly evident when photographing at close range.

Use the LCD instead of the viewfinder to see what is being photographed.

Or, use the correction marks (lines) that can be seen through the viewfinder which approximate the border of the image being taken to visualize what the lens is truly seeing. Then adjust the shot as necessary.

3.) Lighting: True macro photography commonly makes use of specialized flash units but care should be taken when using the flash unit with a digital camera to avoid over exposure and to obtain a natural looking background. Beginners can try a couple of things to obtain the best outcome

Diffuse the light by using very thin tissue in front of the flash

Place plain poster board (biege or gray is often used) behind the subject if the background is blackened. This will lighten the background and if placed far enough away, blur to look more natural.

Use natural diffuse light when possible. As in most photography, avoid direct, overhead sunlight.

Although basic digital cameras have limitations related to macro photography, beginners can certainly obtain images with a level of detail and beauty seldom seen with the naked eye when giving necessary attention to the special needs of close up photography.

Photography – Famous Photographers

Writen by Michael Russell

Thinking of joining the ranks of the greatest photographers of all time? Well, it might be a good idea to check out a few of them and the works they’ve done so you know just what it is you’re up against.

Probably one of the most famous photographers of all time was Ansel Adams. Adams was born In San Francisco California in 1902. He lived in Carmel until he died in 1984. His most popular photo was titled “Moonrise Over Hernandez, 1944″. This is a breathtaking photo showing a beautiful night view and the small town below it. Other famous photos by Adams were “Clearing Winter Storm” and “Winter Sunrise”. Adams did a lot of outdoor photography with some breathtaking views. His most popular photo has about 1000 copies in print. The price range of these photos, depending on condition goes from $5,000 to $175,000 if you can find one.

Moving from outdoor photography of landscapes to nude women on beaches we have the works of Jock Sturges. Sturges was born in the big city of New York in the year 1947. He currently lives in Seattle, Washington. His most popular images, all of beach nudes, are “Misty Dawn 1991″ and “Northern California, 1991″. His prints range in price from $1,000 to $3,000. His most expensive print sold for $4,000.

Herman Leonard was known for taking great photographs of jazz legends. He was born in Allentown, PA in 1923. He currently lives and works in New Orleans. His most popular images are photos of great jazz legends Dexter Gordon, Duke Ellington, Frank Sinatra, Miles Davis, Louis Armstrong and Billie Holiday. Herman Leonard was one of the more active photographers even when not working at his craft. He often traveled with great entertainers like Marlon Brando, who he hung out with in 1954. His photos range in price from $950 to $5,500.

Another great photographer was Irving Penn who was born in Plainfield, NJ in 1917. Penn was actually known for a number of different styles of photography including fashion photography and provocative life style portraits. His most famous work was “Cuzco Children” which sold for as much as $175,000 at the turn of the century. Penn worked for some of the most popular magazines of our time including Harper’s Bazaar, Saks Fifth Avenue and Vogue Magazine.

Another great photographer, who most people have actually heard of, was the one and only Helmut Newton, who just recently passed away in 2004. He was most known for photos involving fashion and nudes illustrating themes of mass media, glamour, sex and theater. Newton’s work was often categorized as bizarre. He was once quoted as saying “My job as a portrait photographer is to seduce, amuse and entertain”. He most certainly did that better than just about anyone else. His most popular image is “Sie Kommen I, II”. His photographs are in such demand that some go for as much as $400,000 each.

The list of famous photographers goes on, literally forever. So if you are thinking of joining the ranks of these greats and many others, then you’re going to have to work hard at your craft.

Very, very hard.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Photography

Digital Photography — Tripods Explained

Writen by Gary Bunn

A good Tripod is a real necessity if you’re serious about photography, and that’s that. I know they can be big, bulky and a pain to carry around, but if you want to get rid of that camera shake that seems to appear in every one of your photos, then it’s time to start the hunt for a good one! Theyre are plenty to choose from, everything from Manfrotto to Slik, in all shapes and sizes.

A decent Tripod is a great advantage to those Photographers taking nature shots or macro-photography, where you want your subjects to be as clear as possible. However, they’re definitely not limited to only those few types. They’re also good for long exposure shots, slow shutter speeds or low light situations. Even if you try to just use a high shutter speed, you still wont have as crisp of a shot without a tripod.

So what to look for?

Examine what type of head it has. Is that what you want? Does it come with one? The head is what attaches your camera to the Tripod and, without the correct head, it’d be useless to you! Some types come with heads that are interchangeable or removable. This will allow you to just buy whichever type of Tripod head thats suits your Camera or preference. Some come with heads that are not, so be aware that if you purchase this type, your stuck with it. Then there are Tripod types that don’t come with any at all, allowing you to buy whichever you like.

Heads come in two varieties. There are the pan and tilt heads and the ball and socket heads. I think both have advantages and disadvantages. The pan and tilt heads move up and down, left to right. It doesn’t have as much fluid movement as the ball and socket type, and setting up vertical shots is a little more time consuming. They’re usually a little cheaper. The ball and socket, which positions in any direction, is nice for moving your camera around while on the tripod. I find if you’re trying to just set up a picture and you simply need to move the camera a tad in one direction, this type is more of a challenge.

If you want to move the camera a little to the left with the pan and tilt, loosen it and move it to the left and tighten. With the ball and socket though, you loosen and then you have to try and keep the camera level while you move it to the left. You might end up moving it to the left and down or up or left and who knows what direction.

Now you’ve checked out the construction, stability and determined which type of head you need. You should be well prepared to choose the perfect Tripod for your needs!