Archive for October, 2009

relationships get clicking with photo prints

Saturday, October 31st, 2009

Relationships Get Clicking with Photo Prints

Writen by Inderjit Sudan

It’s more than photo prints-websites that are clicking today. Cameras aside, relationships are clicking as never before. With options like digital photo prints, digital photos and or even a single digital photo, instant photo prints range from online photo prints and digital photography to digital photo printing and digital prints. Across the spectrum of business and personal users, photo prints are making virtual emotional sharing real.

An ideal way to express emotions, online photo prints express “face to face” feelings at a touch of a mousepad — a quaint digital photo,” miss you” digital prints, digital photos of your vacation, digital photo printing of your grandchildren or even an album of digital photo prints of your corporate roadshow. No wonder photo prints are so popular!

It helps that digital photography is so easy. Good photo prints sites offer reliability, quality digital prints, ease, and more. Whether you’re ordering digital photo prints for countrywide delivery, or creating an album of online photo prints, you’ll find website navigation and digital photo editing tools powerful, but easy and fun. Geared for every user, digital photo printing is a cinch.

The flexible choices in digital photography make digital photo printing even easier. A wide range of photo prints size options and finishing options give a personal touch to digital photo prints, deliver digital photos to friends and family, or simply cherish digital prints in an album at home.

With Photo prints, relating to someone is fast, simple and uniquely personal. At sites digital photography is as simple as clicking a digital photo, simpler even than the editing tools that get your online photo prints just right. It’s where everything clicks together quickly for you and your photo prints. Clicks, just like the relationships in your life.

Inderjit Singh Sudan
http://www.fobaz.com

photography a z the easy way m macro or closeup

Saturday, October 31st, 2009

Photography A – Z the Easy Way: M – Macro or Close-Up

Writen by Eric Hartwell

What is “macro” photography? You will come across many different people talking about the real meaning of macro photography and there are very many senseless arguments as to what it means for the reasonable photographer.

Basically, macro photography is just close up photography. It means getting nearer to your subject and effectively making it look bigger in the viewfinder or on the screen.

But to get closer you need to be able to have a lens that will focus close. This can be achieved by buying a specialised macro lens that can be used as a normal lens but which will have close focussing. Alternatively, you can buy inexpensive add-on lenses that attach to the front of your lens or “extension tubes” which fit in between your lens and the camera body.

Irrespective of which you choose, you will be able to take pictures of bees on flower petals and raindrops on cobwebs and anything you want large and close.

But be aware of the problems of macro (close up) photography. The first is that focussing has to be more critical as the closer you get to an object, the shallower is the depth of field or depth of focus. Make sure you are accurate with the focussing and use a small aperture if you can.

The other problem is that lighting can be a bit tricky. Being so close means that ambient light is often obscured and indoors this makes things difficult. You can use a flashgun but the lighting can be harsh and directional so use little reflectors where possible.

Luckily, your pictures of bees on a sunny day will be easy. Try it.

Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com

color harmony in art and nature

Friday, October 30th, 2009

Color Harmony in Art and Nature

Writen by Melissa Mannon

According to Vincent Van Gogh, “Color in a picture is like enthusiasm in life.” The vibrant colors found in my images demonstrate the beauty of the natural world and aim to provide an uplifting visual experience.

Color can elicit powerful emotions. I believe that a fusion of colors promotes well-being. Mixing festive warm colors such as red with appropriate quiet cool tones, offers up a harmony that is felt in the soul. Color harmonies encourage a “joie de vivre,” making us feel alive and happy when we view them.

“In visual experiences, harmony is something that is pleasing to the eye. It engages the viewer and it creates an inner sense of order, a balance in the visual experience. When something is not harmonious, it’s either boring or chaotic. At one extreme is a visual experience that is so bland that the viewer is not engaged. The human brain will reject under-stimulating information. At the other extreme is a visual experience that is so overdone, so chaotic that the viewer can’t stand to look at it.” (See Color Matters http://www.colormatters.com/colortheory.html.) It is the job of an artist to create color harmonies to engage and delight the viewer.

As a garden photographer, I seek pleasing color compositions that speak to one’s heart. I want my viewer to identify with nature, to feel a passion for the earth and what it has to offer. I want the viewer to either see things and feel calming emotions that he has never experienced or I want to bring him back to a familiar place of peace. Nature is a source of healing and viewing its harmonies should help us commune with all it has to offer.

Recently, my good friend Dr. Sara Thyr wrote about the color green. [Dr. Thyr is a naturopathic doctor and midwife. Visit her web site at www.drthyr.com] According to Dr. Thyr, “Green is restful and energizing at the same time. When we spend time in nature, not only are we getting away from the harried craziness of our daily lives, we are soaking up the essence of healing.”

In the garden, green combines with vibrant yellow, orange, red, purple, pink, and blue for a showy display celebrating life itself. Follow the changing colors throughout the year and experience the vitality of life alongside the passing of time. Profuse harmonizing colors make me feel grounded and alive.

Autumn is my favorite season and my favorite time to photograph in the garden, for nature never puts on a more spectacular show than now. All the colors in our palette show themselves in their most vibrant forms. Brilliant yellows, reds, and oranges serve as a backdrop for pinks, purples, and blues. In addition, brown becomes part of the vocabulary to show the true meaning of life from beginning to end. I hope the viewer feels more alive when viewing my images. And, I hope my images help one feel more enthusiastic about all nature has to offer.

Color harmonizing tips:

1. When choosing colors whether decorating your home, planning your garden, or putting your kids in complementary outfits for their next photo session choose contrasting colors. Yellow and purple, red and green, and blue and orange offset each other to create color harmony.

2. Mix different tones of color to create fresh textures .

3. Don’t be afraid of vivid color. Use accents of hot pink, bright orange, or sunny yellow to brighten your face or walls. A brilliant blue scarf can make the color come out in your cheeks and a painting with passionate red can make your living space more welcoming.

4. When trying to create color harmonies, start with a color that really appeals to you one that speaks to your soul. Add on complementary colors in many different shades.

5. Don’t be afraid to experiment with color and you may stumble upon a combination that speaks to you on a base level.

Award winning photographer Melissa Mannon specializes in garden images and portraits of children. The images in her flower portfolio try to convey a feeling of serenity and oneness with nature, while emphasizing outstanding beauty, color, and radiance that we may not notice at first glance. Ms. Mannon seeks vibrant colors that are enhanced by natural light. Visit her web site at http://www.melissamannonphotography.com.

a simplified guide to quickly and easily understanding your digital camera

Friday, October 30th, 2009

A Simplified Guide To Quickly And Easily Understanding Your Digital Camera

Writen by Tim Gorman

A digital camera can appear complicated, but there are certain basic points that can be quickly learned and will help you become a better photographer. It is worth it to spend some time thinking about your camera’s pixel count, white balance, sensor, sensitivity, optical zoom, digital zoom, etc. These features will improve your pictures and increase the enjoyment you get from your digital camera.

A digital camera’s basic unit of measurement is its number of pixels. The clarity and resolution of your pictures improve with the number of pixels per square inch your camera has. Each pixel contains within it three color channels (red, green and blue) and carries a numerical value of between 0 and 255.

Digital camera manufacturers use the pixel count as one way to describe their product. The pixel count of low-end digital cameras are usually around 1 million, a number that seems large, but is strictly for beginners! Better digital cameras and those used by professionals range in the 14 million to 22 million pixels-per-image.

Pixel number also determines the quality of your pictures at a given size. For example, a 3MP camera can give you beautiful 4″x6″ prints, but would not give you the same quality at 5″x7″ or larger. A 4 or 5 MP digital camera is necessary for excellent quality bigger prints.

You should also be familiar with your digital camera’s digital sensor. The sensor element in most digital cameras is small, about the size of a fingernail, which is much smaller than a 35mm camera’s negative. Again, high-end cameras have the larger sensors, which produce better quality large prints.

Another helpful feature of your digital camera is the white balance. This is adjusted to suit the light source and keeps your colors true, ensuring that whites are pure and not yellow or blue looking. Generally, your digital camera adjusts automatically, but for a really beautiful shot, you can manually adjust to get results exactly as you want them.

A digital camera’s sensitivity setting is similar to ISO ratings on film. Generally, the sensitivity settings of digital cameras compare to ISO100 and ISO 200. Some have a setting for ISO 400. A few digital cameras with large sensors (and large price tags) have a setting for ISO 3200 or ISO 6400.

Another very important feature to be familiar with is optical versus digital zoom. Both are important, but for different reasons. Digital zoom physically crops the image to a smaller size; this cropped image expands to fill the frame. This cool feature allows you to cut out ugly background or focus on a particular object in the frame that might not be centered. Depending on the amount you “zoomed” out, there may a significant loss of quality in your pictures. The optical zoom lens actually changes the magnification and focal length, drawing subjects in and out depending on your desire.

Picture image storage can also be an issue and it’s important to familiarize yourself with the manner in which data is stored. Each pixel generates three bytes of data. A photographer using a modest 3MP will need an amazing nine million bites to store each picture! Compressing an image using a format called JPEG significantly reduces the file size, which causes a corresponding loss of quality. For some purposes, this loss is not important, but as a rule, it is not preferable. Digital camera manufacturers have come up with different storage format designed to minimize this data loss. The format is not uniform; for example, Nikon calls its process NEF, while Canon calls its format RAW.

For more information on the advantages of digital photography please visit Digital-Photo-Tips.info where you will find a digital camera buying guide and helpful information on how a digital camera works.

modeling portfolio webites

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Modeling Portfolio Webites

Writen by John D Williamson

In the age of home phones and 8×10’s we all wondered how anyone could ever afford to get into the modeling industry. Even after you invest a small fortune in professional training and other peripheral services, you still have to purchase all of the marketing materials to send to anyone with a mailing address.

Times are changing, and if you haven’t noticed, the world of modeling is taking roots on the web. There are a number of powerful resources at your fingertips to help you find opportunities. The hard part is figuring out what service will help you get noticed or help you promote yourself professionally.

If you have been looking around the web you’ve noticed all of the standard agency websites promoting their models with a few static photos that the agency placed on their website — 3 years ago!

The problem with the standard method of going through an agency just to get your photos online is that you don’t have much control in the process. The alternative is to build your own portfolio website add photos and recent work experience. Unfortunately, it can be a daunting task to create portfolio website.

Fear not! There are tools out there to help you construct a personalized portfolio website that you can use to market yourself in a variety of ways through numerous channels. And what is this portfolio website tool?

VisionPortfolio.com provides an easy to use portfolio website builder that you can construct in minutes. With the ability to customize 3 galleries and a cover shot, you have the room to upload 28 images and/or audio and video clips. Tell you story in the accompanying text sections.

Your portfolio website will be accessible through your personalized domain name. You can use it in all of your communications, postings on any other websites, and inside the VisionPortfolio Talent Directory. No more mailing expensive portraits. All of your portfolio pictures are accessible anytime on your own website.

If you want to market yourself more effectively you need to learn about the world of porfolio websites. Check out the free trial offers on VisionPortfolio.com to experience it for yourself.

John Williamson is a spokesperson and talent scout for VisionPortfolio.com

lossless and lossy digital photo file compression

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Lossless and Lossy Digital Photo File Compression

Writen by Ziv Haparnas

Digital photos are stored as digital files on electronic media. Digital photos are comprised of pixels each one with a unique color and intensity. While digital photos do not have to be compressed in most cases they are. Compression serves one goal make files smaller and save storage space.

A digital photo is a built of pixels. A pixel is a single dot in the photo that has a value. A pixel’s value represents its color and intensity. Usually each pixel is represented by an RGB value (Red, Green and Blue that combined together create the pixel’s color) that occupies 3 bytes. Digital photo files can be very big. For example if you shoot a photo using an 8 mega pixels digital camera the photo will have 8000000 pixels each one occupying 3 bytes. The total file size would be 8000000*3=24000000 or 24Mbytes. However ff compressed using the right technology this file could be much smaller – about 3Mbytes would be common.

There are two main types of compression technologies: lossy and lossless:

Lossless compression:

Lossless compression means that if you take a file compress it and then decompress it – the decompressed file would be the exact copy of the original file. With lossless compression no data is lost in the compression process – the compression software uses better representation of the data in the file but it does not remove any data from it.

Lossy compression:

Lossy compression means that if you take a file, compress it and then decompress it – the decompressed file would be slightly different than the original one. The compression software not only represents the file’s data more efficiently but it also removes data that it analyzed as being minor or not important. Such data can be removed without hardly any noticeable degradation in the compressed file quality. The differences between the original file and the decompressed file are minor and negligible to the user.

Lossless compression is usually applied to text and other data where all data is equally important. For example when compressing the text in this article and later on decompressing it you would want to get the exact original article without any words or sentences dropped by the compression software that decided they were not important.

Lossy compression on the other hand is usually applied to digital photos and graphic files. Such files include data that the viewer would not be able to notice if removed. For example small changes to color in a photo might not be noticeable. The decompressed file is not exactly the same as the original one but when viewing both the original and decompressed photos side by side the viewer can not tell the difference. Lossy compression software can be set to different compression levels based on how much data is allowed to be lost. At some point losing too much data is noticeable and degrades the digital photo quality. Many digital cameras allow you to set the level of compression from low to high where high compression means smaller files but less quality and low compression means bigger files but no noticeable quality degradation.

Digital photos are almost solely compressed using lossy technologies. The reason is that due to the nature of a photo (it includes noise, very minor changes that are hard to compress but are not important to the view and more) lossless compression technologies do not perform well on it. On the other hand Lossy compression technologies can be very effective in reducing digital photo file sizes – sometimes an order of magnitude or more.

Ziv Haparnas is a technology veteran and writes about practical technology and science issues. This article can be reprinted and used as long as the resource box including the backlink is included. You can find more information about photo album printing and photography in general on http://www.printrates.com – a site dedicated to photo printing.

snapshots portraits and fine art portraits

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

Snapshots, Portraits, and Fine Art Portraits

Writen by Stan Cox II

What is it that separates a ‘Portrait’ from a ’snapshot’? What makes a Portrait a Fine Art Portrait? There’s a lot more to it than simply making a number of exposures!

First, I’d like to address some of the misconceptions about what constitutes a Portrait. Some insist that a Portrait must have a vertical orientation. Or that a Portrait must be in Black & White, or that the subject must not be looking directly back at the viewer.

Portraits may be either vertical or horizontal, color or B&W, and with the subject looking back at the viewer, or not. These are not the criteria for determining whether a picture is a ‘Portrait’ or a humble ’snapshot’.

Let’s talk about what a ’snapshot’ is. Generally, snapshots are photos made on the spur of the moment, with little or no forethought or planning. Snapshots capture moments of reality, usually with no artistic intent, no thoughtful composition, and no special lighting.

Portraits can be made by accident, but that is certainly the exception rather than the rule. There is a whole creative process behind the making of Portraits. For a Portrait Artist the creative process begins with the first moment of contact with the client. That may be on the phone, via email, or in person. Ah! That’s the bestIn Person!

I always prefer an in-person interview before creating portraits for anyone I don’t already know personally. Telephone and email can substitute, but there’s nothing like a face-to-face interview to learn about a person. You can experience their mannerisms, body language, and determine if you have “chemistry”, or at least whether you can work well with them.

Sometimes the first meeting or contact with the client is at the time of the actual portrait session. Definitely not the most optimal, but possible to deal with. Portraits can be made, after all, without having to be art pieces, and still have merit as portrait art.

Portraits, as opposed to snapshots, are realistic renditions of the subject(s), in the most flattering presentation. This is achieved through posing, lighting, camera technique, and rapport.

Yes, rapport! The photographer-artist must be able to draw out the personality of the subject. Of course, that’s easier to do if you’ve had a couple or more meetings with them prior to making images of them for portraits. But certainly possible on a short notice, one meeting scenario.

This one meeting/planning/portrait creation scenario, in fact, is by far the most common. Think Mall, or chain-store studios. Can an ‘Art Portrait’ be created under such circumstances? Certainly it is possible, but it would require exceptional ability on the part of the artist.

A much better environment for creating Art Portraits is developed by interviewing the subject, and learning about their interests, motivations and beliefs. What is important to them. With this information, the artist can begin to construct conceptions for portraits, which will evoke the personalities of their subjects.

For individual portraits, the goal is to portray the person in such a way that the viewer of the portrait will get a sense of what the person is about. For family, or group portraits the goal becomes to show the relationships, love or friendships within the group or family.

In all cases, Portraits require “finishing”, or “post-production” work. In the majority of cases, (think Mall, or Chain studios), post production is limited to color and density correction, processing and printing. Now that most all studios are ‘digital’, some light retouching may be included, but usually at an additional charge.

When a portrait has been properly prepared for with an interview/consultation, properly lit, posed and exposed, then it is in post production that the “art” of the portrait is brought to life.

Before digital changed all our lives, retouching was done on negatives and prints. Vignetting by dodging and burning, and “sandwiching” images was all done in the darkroom with enlargers, paddles and screens, and smelly chemicals!

In today’s digital workflow, the photo-artist does all the retouching, dodging, burning, highlighting, blurring, and other effects via computer software. And while creating many of these effects are easier digitally than they used to be with film, it still requires planning, artistic vision, expertise and plenty of time to execute. Typically, I’ll spend 15 to 30 minutes working on an image of just one or two people to prepare it for printing. Longer for more people, or if I’m collaging images, or making special effects etc.

So what does it take to produce a Fine Art Portrait? Knowledge of your subject(s), usually gained during the interview/consultation; Thoughtful planning and preparation, utilizing the knowledge gained in the interview, and your personal artistic vision; Skill in the use of your lighting and camera; Care in guiding your subject(s) into poses that convey the mood sought, or that add to the portrayal of personality; Time and Pantience and Expertise in using the tools at your disposal with which one prepares the images for final printing; And lastly, the media that the prints are made on, and the finishing and mounting of the prints for delivery to the client.

In the end, Fine Art Portraiture begins with the intent. It requires cooperation on the part of the subject, and relies on the vision and skills of the artist.

About the author: Stan P. Cox II runs a Portrait and Commercial photography studio in Honolulu, Hawaii, and has been a professional Hawaii photographer for 31 years. His web address is: http://www.ParamountPhotography.com This article may be freely distributed if this resource box stays attached.

flower pictures a mild obsession 2

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

Flower Pictures – A Mild Obsession #2

Writen by Patrick Heathcock

So a gorgeous yellow daisy mesmerises me, swaying elegantly in the light afternoon breeze, bathed in the warm light. Mmmm…emotions gently bubble to the surface, excitement foremost, followed by the deep satisfaction that I’ve been able to make time to return to this spot to revisit my yellow daisy. I’ve already shot her once…but…now another chance to create another feel, another image worthy of my wall.

As before I dispense with my tripod. An odd decision? Perhaps… but here’s my thinking on the subject. Firstly this is a decision which individual photographers need to make for themselves and secondly, and please understand this clearly, there are no rights or wrongs when the intent is artistic creation.

A tripod slows the process down (a good thing), it allows for greater reflection on composition and it creates the freedom necessary to style the shot without losing the angle of view one has chosen. It also has the added benefit of helping to steady the camera considerably so that camera shake is avoided. Actually in practise that bonus can rapidly become nullified – add a little spring zephyr to the mix and suddenly movement becomes an artistic must have, with or without the tripod!

Easing swiftly on to my preference…

Shooting fashion was my world for a number of years and even though I used a tripod a lot in the studio, more often than not on location I preferred to hand hold my monster of a medium format camera (GX680). Luckily it has an autowind so cranking to the next frame wasn’t a bore, but the freedom to be able to approach all shots by circling the subject to see how the world looked from that perspective was hugely stimulating. Good stuff! And oddly now that I’m shooting my mostly inanimate gorgeous yellow daisy and the like, I feel incredibly fettered when using a tripod. Don’t ever let anyone dictate that there is only one proper way (ironically almost always their way – strange…). Discipline is in your approach and consistency of approach rather than just the tools.

There is another factor in the mix – DIGITAL…A little rant last time, a repeat now…Freedom! To me digital spells freedom – access, creativity, lack of stress about mundane matters like money i.e. cost per frame “wasted”. If you like to shoot a lot of each view as I do, this would get prohibitive real quick on film. I urge you as a budding or even a relatively experienced photographer to shoot lots – life is too short to stuff a mushroom (if you get that you get my point), and shoot at the highest res possible. I cringe at sad sack stories of the one that got away.

Be disciplined, shoot smart. Make yourself a checklist, mental or written, of things to check and use it every time you go out to shoot. It’s the little things…you try explaining to a client that you forgot the charged batteries at the studio or even worse, a whispered aside to assistant “Herm where’s the film?” And then even worse the reply “I thought you packed it….” Checklists rule okay!

So to the gorgeous yellow number…Another decision, another choice. Shoot the natural view or create an instant outdoor studio background with flags, fills and scrim. Me, I like the control of creating my own environment as far as possible. I like the deep orange fuzzy card in the background with my model languishing, exotically garbed in yellow organza, in the foreground. Daisy perfection!

Now for some forward planning…don’t ever restrict your ability to shoot by not planning ahead. Take a few extras with you…

I grabbed a series of different colored cards before I left, A4 sheets as the work is close and my subjects mostly small, and I cut a slit down the vertical centre line to 1/3 into the page, then carved out a small round hole (a keyhole in effect),a perfect fit around the stem of most flowers, without doing any real damage. Don’t worry about the slit, Photoshop will clean that up! For the purists out there sorry if that’s cheating in your book, but hey if you’ve got it, use it, is my feeling.

I also stuck a bit of foil, white card and black card in for good measure. A tiny mobile studio – flag and fill! Do it properly if you’re going to do it at all. The foil can be well used to create pattern or glitter on an otherwise dull surface, the white card to fill in the shadow areas and the black card to define edges on white/light subjects. On really bright, sunny days it’s worth adding a sheet of scrim to the mix to soften the light over the subject. Diffuse light created by a cloudy day or by a decent piece of scrim is so much easier to work with – color saturation is deep and satisfying without huge loss in shadows or highlights. Be prepared!

BUT…

Do not rule out the harsh directness of full-on sun. It can be awesome to work in direct sun – huge drama, brilliant glitter. Give yourself a break – luxuriate in choice. Never loose site of the point…GET THE SHOT…the shot that’s beautiful enough to grace the wall…any wall!

See the beauty!

Copyright 2005 Patrick Heathcock

Sometime commercial photographer London, fulltime flower art photographer and web designer living in the southern semisphere, soaking up the sun. Visit A FLower Gallery to view the yellow daisy and more!

the amazing light painting technique

Tuesday, October 27th, 2009

The Amazing Light Painting Technique

Writen by Steve McArthur

Light painting is a term that I had never heard of until a few days ago. I was looking at a few photos on a photo web site, and I must say that I am amazed at the quality of some of the photos that were exhibited there.

Especially interesting to me was a set of pictures taken by a photographer that had the look of the “old world” Dutch master painters. The Light painting is just fantastic and the end result is most appealing. You can view some examples at PhotoZoomy.com.

The execution of Light Painting is actually very simple, although getting good results maybe a bit more exacting. First, set up a table with a dark cloth backdrop. Next, arrange your still life objects. Set up your camera on a tripod and focus on your objects with all the lights on.

Turn the lights off after you set your shutter speed to around 20 seconds. Click the shutter. Shine a flashlight on different parts of your objects that you want to highlight for about 2 seconds on each spot.

After 20 seconds you will have your Light Painted photo. This is of course is a very simplistic explanation of Light Painting and you will probably have to take 20 or 30 pictures to get it right, but it gives you the basic idea of how it works.

Light Painting Examples

Photography Training Manual

aaron siskind

Tuesday, October 27th, 2009

Aaron Siskind

Writen by Edward Ginsberg

What can reading a biography of Aaron Siskind do for me? – a fair question. Reading about almost any great photographer can help answer two questions (at least): What should I photograph and how should I photograph it. Frederick Evans tells about the use of light, Man Ray shows how to be a photographer without owning a camera, and Aaron Siskind lets us know that for inspiration we don’t have to confine ourselves to fellow photographers.

But let’s begin closer to the beginning. Siskind (1903-1991) originally wanted to be a writer and in college had been interested in literature, especially poetry. Like many would-be writers, he ended up as an English teacher. He taught elementary and junior high school, mainly in New York City, from 1926 until 1949.

Fate struck the would-be writer in the form of a present when he got married. “I was given a small camera as a wedding gift from a very dear friend. My first pictures were taken on my honeymoon. As soon as I became familiar with the camera, I was intrigued with the possibilities of expression it offered. It was like a discovery for me.”

Goodbye writer, hello photographer. Siskind joined the Film and Photo League, a cultural organization of the Communist Party. Like many artists in the depression of the 1930s, he was moved to help the poor and disadvantaged. For about a decade he worked as a documentary photographer. Among his creations were Dead End: The Bowery and Harlem Document (1932-40). In the early 1940s Siskind made a radical departure from documentation. He started to produce abstract work.

At that time, the school of painting known as Abstract Expressionism was just getting started. As it was centered in New York City, Abstract Expressionism was also called The New York School.

Siskind was in on the ground floor. Many of the Abstract Expressionist painters were his friends.

Abstract Expressionism was a radical departure from traditional painting for many reasons. For one thing, the subject matter wasn’t important. Actually, there was no identifiable subject matter. To many of the movement’s painters this was a way to free themselves from “the impediments of memory, association, nostalgia, legend, and myth that have been the devices of Western European painting.” (Barnett Newman)

The absence of traditional subject matter was only the beginning. Not only was Abstract Expressionism non-geometric, there was, in some cases, a departure from traditional method. Jackson Pollack poured and dripped thinned paint onto raw canvas laid on the ground.

Finally, there was even a de-emphasis on the finished product. To an Abstract Expressionist the act of creating the painting was more important than the finished product.

They also shared a common philosophy. They sought to express their subconscious. They were interested in Jung’s ideas about myth, ritual, and racial memory.

Although they shared a philosophy, they didn’t share a technique. There were two main branches of Abstract Expressionist paintings. Color Field, whose chief practitioners were Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, and Clyfford Still, and Gestural, which was produced by artists such as Jackson Pollock, Willem De Kooning, Hans Hofmann, Franz Kline, and Robert Motherwell.

Siskind was a friend of De Kooning, Kline, and Motherwell.

From the time he became interested in Abstract Expressionism, Siskind never looked back. His photographs eliminated the illusion of three-dimensional space. He produced abstract images of common flat, non-geometric objects that had been ignored by conventional photographers. His subject matter included peeling paint, drips of tar, graffiti, seaweed, torn posters, old doorways, and “found art,” all sorts of discarded objects that he encountered on his walks.

“When I make a photograph I want it to be an altogether new object, complete and self-contained, whose basic condition is order – unlike the world of events and actions whose permanent condition is change and disorder.”

In 1951, Siskind began teaching at the Chicago Institute of Design, where he remained until 1971. He finished his teaching career at the Rhode Island School of Design (1971-76).

And what is the moral of this story? There are two. The first is that, as a photographer, you have to find a style that is consistent with who you are. Remember that Aaron Siskind’s initial goal was to become a writer. He had a taste for poetry. His temperament seems, from the beginning, to have been more consistent with Abstract Expressionism than with documentary photography. And, after a decade of taking pictures, Siskind found the style that would make him famous.

The second message is that you don’t have to limit your search for ideas and inspiration to photographs or photographers.

Edward Ginsberg is currently writing a book to help the beginning photographer find true happiness as he embarks on the road to creativity. His website, http://www.line17.com, offers several free tutorials as well as a sample of his photographs.